- Replant Forums Highballer
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- Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 6:37 am
- Location: new westminster b.c.
in the interior i used running shoes made for use on artificial turf for years. they have for want of another word "knobs" all over the bottom of the soles.vacationer wrote:You don't actually "need" much of anything apart from a tent, a sleeping bag and planting gear. Everything else is subject to experimentation. On flat land many people plant in gumboots or running shoes.
other than that i used leather caulks on the coast (great ankle support) oh yeah and insoles are a must!!!!
I agree with caulk boots most of the time, but if your in a dry area with fast ground having something lighter will make a big difference especially if your rockin' out without shoulders straps, you need your legs and feet to have something light.mcD wrote:I have tried most things at one time or another and now use good leather caulk boots everywhere. they are a bit heavy sometimes, but I find my feet and knees really like the extra support and traction. a good pair will run you almost five hundred, but my last pair lasted five long seasons, so per season it was less than a hundred dollars.
I've been rockin' caulks lately, but I used to love my Scarpa's, $300 per day, but made about $50-100 per day difference on dry and fast ground.
And I must add, I once overheard Franz Otto say "It's all in the boots"
If you seen his white boots, and the guy plant, you'd want his boots too.
Don't kid yourself, there's no way that wearing a particular pair of boots will make you an extra 100$ per day. Come on.Duncan wrote: but I used to love my Scarpa's, $300 per day, but made about $50-100 per day difference on dry and fast ground.
TheHamsterizer wrote:Don't kid yourself, there's no way that wearing a particular pair of boots will make you an extra 100$ per day. Come on.
Wearing the right boots can be a big difference maker. Good hikers in northern BC or Alberta gives good ankle support and a lighter boot will give enable you to move faster and will avoid wearing you down over the course of a day, a shift or the entire season if you look at the long term effects. Maybe not $100 per day for some, but for others it can be the key to going from average wages to big numbers. Some people have no problems with their feet and are comfortable with most of anything so they don't think about it much. Personally, I hate the shoulder straps so I'm always looking to help make my legs or feet lighter because when I bag big, I'm slower. So wearing light boots made a huge difference for the early part of my bag ups and it can be the difference between one or two bag ups which in some places is $100. And if my feet are bugging me on the fast ground then I can't run which could cost me 2 or 3 bag ups in a day, easy. Then again, I hate wet feet so I like my caulks. I think you'd be better off never wearing running shoes as they will f$ck your feet up unless you got orthopedics. My highballer the last few years sweared by his runners on the fast ground, but he also had orthopedics. In the rain, didn't usually highball.jono wrote:I dunno, when I went from wearing concrete boots to leather ones my production went way up
If you've found the boots that make your feet love this job then you are lucky. Boots are some of the biggest difference makers in planting but also a topic that many vets still battle with throughout their careers as their feet sometimes stop agreeing with their longtime boots. Don't cheap out is my advice and break in new boots BEFORE you plant. (I know most people know, but I still met vets who don't do that.)
I will agree that $100 is not attainable for some, but it WILL make a huge difference for those that have yet to peak or have foot problems which is common to treeplanters and could even be that one thing that helps someone break out and be even more of a difference maker than $100. We've all done things to improve our performance and boots are one of the big difference makers in my opinion.
If one of the best planters ever talks about something giving him the edge then you should probably listen. If not then your not looking into the real sense of how to become a better planter. Don't look deeper sometimes because sometimes it is what it is.jono wrote:If you look a little deeper into the quote it makes sense in a different way... Nothing to do with the boots, but what is IN them.
Franz Otto is overratted. He was good back in the day, but these days there are lots of people putting in 3k on the coast. He's not the best planter ever anymore.Duncan wrote:If one of the best planters ever talks about something giving him the edge then you should probably listen. If not then your not looking into the real sense of how to become a better planter. Don't look deeper sometimes because sometimes it is what it is.jono wrote:If you look a little deeper into the quote it makes sense in a different way... Nothing to do with the boots, but what is IN them.
Where are you planting and who are you planting for?
In some places, caulks are a must. Showing up without them means sitting in the crummy all day an not working. Or sitting in the rain waiting for the heli.
Personally, I've never worn anything less than caulks and would never wear a regular hiking boot on any block. Then again, I've never planted east of Kelowna or north of Willie's Lake.
I can't imagine paying $500 for caulk boots though (as someone mentioned). Usually they are in the $100 range.
How about Bad footwear subtracting 50-100 from your day? Blisters, sore feet? seems about right.TheHamsterizer wrote:bla bla bla, yeah boots are important, etc but there's no way they can add 50-100 to your day. No way.
As for the Steel Shanks - Theoretically if I remember correctly ALL bush workers are req. to have them in their boots via WCB. Same with steel toes in many locations (Alberta, Ontario, some contracts in BC). The Block IS a jobsite, despite what everyone thinks it is - and should be treated as such. I'm not surprised the salesman covered his ass by telling you that.
I've seen people planting in rubber boots... I've also seen tons of rusting steel shrapnel, which could easily puncture a boot, tentnus, infections, it's the bush right?
There are a TON of safety regulations that are ignored/swept under due to the practicalities of them.
the boots I was refering to are handmade double cowhide(or bison if you prefer) lace ups by viberg. I used to rock the $100 rubber caulks but ended up going through 2 or 3 pairs in a season. I found even the laceup rubber caulks didn't give me enough ankle support to really move on hard terrain. also having a high arch they didn't provide enough under foot. the boots I use now are expensive, but as I stated earlier it is a one time expenditure that easily pays for itself over 4 or 5 seasons.jimbrowski wrote:can't imagine paying $500 for caulk boots though (as someone mentioned). Usually they are in the $100 range.
- Replant Forums Highballer
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- Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 4:43 pm
- Location: manitoba
i bought those orange caulks when i did a month and a half on the coast, and by the end of that they were basically destroyed. it made me think that these $500 custom boots people use on the coast are definitely worth it.
but so far nothing lasts, not scarpas not anything i've tried. it might not just be the abuse they take out on the block though, the daily drying out in front of a fire after being soaking wet i've been told weakens leather. not sure. a good set of boots or tough runners will make you money though and may pay for themselves even if it is just for a contract, depending on the situation.
That's the reason none of your boots last. Never dry them out by the fire or extreme heat like that, no matter how soaked they are. If you dry them by the fire you will crack the leather or any of the material. I'll never put my boots near the fire, it is way too hot for them, remember leather is only treated cow skin, how hot can you make your skin till it gets damaged?krahn wrote:
but so far nothing lasts, not scarpas not anything i've tried. it might not just be the abuse they take out on the block though, the daily drying out in front of a fire after being soaking wet i've been told weakens leather.
I found the best way to dry my boots out is to put on a dry pair of socks and change them 3-4 times while planting. But if you want dry boots for the morning, no better feeling, I agree, think about investing in a Dry Guy. you can get one that is a small heater that plugs into a cigarette lighter and slowly dries out your boot in an hour or two. One boot on the way from the block at night and dry the other on the way to the block.
You can annihilate your boots on the block, if they are good quality, and treat them right, they will last a long time. By treat them right, i am saying use some type of boot treatment atleast once a month while using them.
- Replant Forums Highballer
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- Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 4:43 pm
- Location: manitoba
1- become a foreman so you can stay in the truck all day when it rains.
***crap, let me try again
1- Buy good, solid leather boots with as few seams as possible and treat them on a regular basis. I wear gronnells, but I've seen La Sportivas that are similar. I treat my boots every day off.
2- If you're gonna try to dry them, be smart about it. Don't put them by the fire; you'll burn the outside to a crisp, while the inside stays nice and damp (you don't bake a cake on broil). Put something absobent inside the boot; newspaper works great. Use a steady and mild heat. Don't use the oven or the vents in your foreman's truck; you'll be universally despised.
3- Since no water will get in through the boot (remember, you're treating it every week and NOT ruining the leather by the fire), you have to make sure no water funnels in through the top of the boot. Use Goretex gators, and make sure they're tight on the boot and tight on the top of your calf. Don't put your pants inside your gators when its pouring rain or you're going through a bush wash cycle; the water will seep in through your pant leg, through your socks, into your boot.
4- If you can afford it, and if you hate wet squishy feet as much as I do, buy goretex socks. Yes yes, I'm a bourgeois asshole. But I'm a bourgeois asshole with dry feet, so I win. Yeah, they're expensive, but I only wear them when it rains, so they've actually lasted me 3 years now and show no signs of letting up. I guess a part of this is making sure there's no friction anywhere; wear properly fitted boots! Also, make sure the top of the goretex sock goes over your normal socks; otherwise the water that makes it past your gators or down your leg will seep into your socks.
Yeah, this is all really weird and totally anal on my part, but I haven't had wet feet in years.
-avoid fabric speedlacing- you know those little cordura loops that are sometimes used as lace guides. They will fray out in a week. Your footwear (if laced) should use metal speedlacing loops, or grommet lace guides only.
http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 4441772599
Your problem, Ben Mac, might be that you're using Vikings: as far as I know every Viking has a rubber bottom. This is probably contributing to making your feet sweat more than anything else. If you treat leather right, and it's good leather, it's a way better material for your feet.
Having leather uppers with fubber bottoms never made a whole lot of sense to me. I guess you get a little more ankle support, but you lose the 100% impermiability, which kinda seems to be the point of rubbers. Most of the time my feet have gotten wet in the past, it's been because of water seeping down my socks, so if the leather part of the Vikings isn't keeping your feet dry, it's not really doin any good. Also, they're heavy as hell.
I guess my point's basically that if you want caulked boots, get Vibergs... They'll last longer, be more comfortable, weigh less, probably be just as waterproof (or pretty near), have better support, etc etc.
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